Went to buy some new plant a couple of weeks ago and saw this old dumper hiding in the bushes. It immediately caught my eye as I learnt to drive on one of these when I 13. Anyway I bought it and have fallen in love with it, (many happy hours spent riding around on it, just makes me smile).
It's a crank start and starts ok - ish but not every time.. (thinking compression... piston rings!!).. is very smoky (injectors ??) and only runs for about 90 mins before stopping, (fuel filter and air filter have been replaced and it has good fuel supply to injectors). I've decided to rebuild the engine which is a Lister LD2 (twin). Does anyone know of any local Lister parts suppliers and or parts and maintenance manuals..?
Any help appreciated.
KJN
-- Edited by wackyracer on Tuesday 20th of August 2013 08:03:42 PM
What happened to Sleeman and Hawkin by the bridge at Shaldon? Are they still there? Used to be Lister/Petter agents. Not been that way for quite a while so don't know if they're still there.
That wee dumper reminds me of my Meccano kits!
-- Edited by tugboat on Tuesday 20th of August 2013 11:46:59 PM
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The sign on my cabin door said "Not enough bucks stop here".
Check that the injector pump rack is not sticking, and the brass stop control is in place and working. Savilles on Marsh Barton used to be the lister agents for the south west. Most plant hire companies should be able to supply you with filters, and I will see if I have any manuals the main thing you need to know is how to set the spill timing of the injector pumps done by shims under the pump body
Apart from that remember Lister and Petter engines were designed for colonials and Australians to work on so a large hammer and a big shifter is normally all you need
PM me if you need any help
__________________
Riding with enthusiasm upon the ragged precipice of disaster
Check that the injector pump rack is not sticking, and the brass stop control is in place and working. Savilles on Marsh Barton used to be the lister agents for the south west. Most plant hire companies should be able to supply you with filters, and I will see if I have any manuals the main thing you need to know is how to set the spill timing of the injector pumps done by shims under the pump body
Apart from that remember Lister and Petter engines were designed for colonials and Australians to work on so a large hammer and a big shifter is normally all you need
PM me if you need any help
Thanks Gaschef - you seem to know a lot more about them than I do - however I can't wait to get the engine out and back in my workshop for re-building. All three forward gears are good as is reverse it's just this engine cutting out after about 75 - 90 mins that foxes me. Until then the engine is strong and will happily carry full loads of spoil or earth over rough ground and up steep banks, (great fun with the two wheel drive).
I would be extremely greatful for info that you may have on LD2's.
Thanks for the Savilles lead - I'll see where it takes me.
What happened to Sleeman and Hawkin by the bridge at Shaldon? Are they still there? Used to be Lister/Petter agents. Not been that way for quite a while so don't know if they're still there.
They've gone, The Force 8 pub and the chalet holiday park next door are now a row of houses
Check that the injector pump rack is not sticking, and the brass stop control is in place and working. Savilles on Marsh Barton used to be the lister agents for the south west. Most plant hire companies should be able to supply you with filters, and I will see if I have any manuals the main thing you need to know is how to set the spill timing of the injector pumps done by shims under the pump body
Apart from that remember Lister and Petter engines were designed for colonials and Australians to work on so a large hammer and a big shifter is normally all you need
PM me if you need any help
Thanks Gaschef - you seem to know a lot more about them than I do - however I can't wait to get the engine out and back in my workshop for re-building. All three forward gears are good as is reverse it's just this engine cutting out after about 75 - 90 mins that foxes me. Until then the engine is strong and will happily carry full loads of spoil or earth over rough ground and up steep banks, (great fun with the two wheel drive).
I would be extremely greatful for info that you may have on LD2's.
Thanks for the Savilles lead - I'll see where it takes me.
If its running for that long before cutting out, I would drain and clean the fuel tank and change the fuel filter, before you start doing anything else. It may be worth just taking the metal shrouds off the flywheel and cylinders and give it all a good pressure washing, fan blades on the flywheel and the cylinder cooling fins, they can be a little cantankerous if they do get too hot so clean the air cooling track. You might as well give it a 20 year oil and filter change,
When you change the fuel filter remember to change the rubber sealing gasket in the housing that the filter bowl sits against
Remember when starting Thumb and Fingers to one side of the starting handle as when it kicks back, it wont break your thumb
Is it black smoke or blue smoke, Black smoke is most likely fuel, probably worth getting the injectors checked, if they are OK its the shims under the injector pumps (Spill Timing)
Blue smoke its oil best just to try a set of rings, unless its all worn and then it will be cheaper to get new barrels and pistons rather than thinking of reboring what you have
-- Edited by gaschef on Wednesday 21st of August 2013 10:32:15 AM
__________________
Riding with enthusiasm upon the ragged precipice of disaster
Got hold of a company yesterday call real diesels - the chap very kindly emailed me pdf files of the parts manual and Instruction. I know it's not likely but let me know if anyone wants a copy of them.
Check that the injector pump rack is not sticking, and the brass stop control is in place and working. Savilles on Marsh Barton used to be the lister agents for the south west. Most plant hire companies should be able to supply you with filters, and I will see if I have any manuals the main thing you need to know is how to set the spill timing of the injector pumps done by shims under the pump body
Apart from that remember Lister and Petter engines were designed for colonials and Australians to work on so a large hammer and a big shifter is normally all you need
PM me if you need any help
Thanks Gaschef - you seem to know a lot more about them than I do - however I can't wait to get the engine out and back in my workshop for re-building. All three forward gears are good as is reverse it's just this engine cutting out after about 75 - 90 mins that foxes me. Until then the engine is strong and will happily carry full loads of spoil or earth over rough ground and up steep banks, (great fun with the two wheel drive).
I would be extremely greatful for info that you may have on LD2's.
Thanks for the Savilles lead - I'll see where it takes me.
If its running for that long before cutting out, I would drain and clean the fuel tank and change the fuel filter, before you start doing anything else. It may be worth just taking the metal shrouds off the flywheel and cylinders and give it all a good pressure washing, fan blades on the flywheel and the cylinder cooling fins, they can be a little cantankerous if they do get too hot so clean the air cooling track. You might as well give it a 20 year oil and filter change,
When you change the fuel filter remember to change the rubber sealing gasket in the housing that the filter bowl sits against
Remember when starting Thumb and Fingers to one side of the starting handle as when it kicks back, it wont break your thumb
Is it black smoke or blue smoke, Black smoke is most likely fuel, probably worth getting the injectors checked, if they are OK its the shims under the injector pumps (Spill Timing)
Blue smoke its oil best just to try a set of rings, unless its all worn and then it will be cheaper to get new barrels and pistons rather than thinking of reboring what you have
-- Edited by gaschef on Wednesday 21st of August 2013 10:32:15 AM
Thanks Gaschef - my next process of elimination is as follows:
Steam clean fuel tank.
Clean breather pipes.
Have already changed air and fuel filters and as you explained did insert the rubber seal where the filter housing touches the filter.
As recommended by you I will check and clean the shrouds to the flywheel and cylinders and will check the cooling track.
We have heavy black smoke on starting and when the revs are increased after it has been ticking over, so may try cleaning / replacing the injectors.
What are you thoughts on that Gaschef - have I missed anything???
You're not going anywhere near my place with hydraulic machinery... However the next site I get with some demo I'll invite you all down to do some damage..?
