Devon TRF Group Forum

wackyracer · Powermonger!!

chain wear....

TTR · Powermonger!!

Big bikes are always going to be heavy on chain sets particularly where the rider has a twitchy right hand wink

I use Renthal R3 chains and they last well - particularly since I refitted the chain guard which stopped the crud being thrown on the chain and chewed through the front sprocket!

The X ring DID is the same price as the R3 so may be worth trying?

kevinred · Clubman A

My chain on the DRZ 400 was recently changed. Its looking a bit chewn on the outside edges/ rollers already.

I have kept it clean and oiled it religiously, but I guess wet mud is like grinding paste.

Im pretty new to the green lane malarky but its looking like its going to be cheap on fuel (than road bike) but costly on chains and sprockets.

Oh well its fun wink

Pearcy · Expert

I use the D.I.D 520, I clean and oil it as soon as I get back from every ride -

Was actually thinking how good a chain it is and make sure I get one the same next time.

Just shows what is right for one, might not be for another hmm

RichT4 · Champion

I think a 13T front is too tight a turn, I went back to a 14T front and went up on the rear instead as I found 14T front sprockets seem to last longer than 13T ones - that also meant having 2 extra links in the chain to allow for the larger sprocket.
Larger sprocket combs make the chain turn more but that reduces the torque - it might be "6 of one or half a dozen of the other" though as it's reduced the strain but increased the possible abrasion as the chain is moving faster.

Also I've noticed that a lot of the higher powered 450's I ridden with seem to lug more as the riders try to use the low down torque to find traction and control the power - that's got to be bad for the drive train as the engine is delivering large power pulses, you can actually hear the chain slapping around on the bike in front of you. This is not specific to any particular brand either.
I try to never lug mine but change down to raise the engine revs as that gives smoother power delivery which is easier on the chain, sprockets, gearbox & clutch.

I get reasonable life out of my chain's & sprockets (apart from the last one as I went for a cheap O-ring chain just to see what the difference was - won't be doing that again!)

phil400 · Clubman A

i like rich tried a cheap chain, never ever again!

about half way through a ride the chain really could do with retighting.
get what you pay for i guess!?

Pete · Devon's Best

DID X-rings are worth the extra money in my opinion.
I have not had to adjust mine in three rides since fitting, which is a pleasure after needing adjustment every ride with the useless cheapo Issa chain CCM fitted as standard, (lasted 3000 miles).
I found 13 tooth front sprockets wear chains out very fast and it is worth getting a longer chain and a larger rear sprocket so you can use 14 tooth or larger. The small sized 13 tooth asks too much of the chain.

hampsterracing · Devon's Best

I went from 13/50 to 14/54 and it helps chain life. I stick to renthal r3 now and get around 2500 miles to a set. I tried the did x ring but found it no better than the r3.

The other bonus is a 14t front lasts the life of the chain where i needed 2 x 13t.

MATT T · Clubman B

The Rental R3 is about £54 on e-bay , is this the ball park price or is there somewhere cheaper to source them. Matt T

wackyracer · Powermonger!!

Hi matt,

I think my last one form albion wasn't much cheaper maybe a couple of quid with the trf discount, all depends on travelling distance wink

laterz wacky smile

grouty · Expert

Rich and Pete offer some good advise there Ian. I would never go below 14t on the front either. Lugging it will destroy any chain in no time.
I would also check your chain guide and rollers. If one of them is bent it will kill a chain. Same goes with swingarm bearings and rear wheeel bearings.

KronreifTrunkenpolzMattighofen · Devon's Best

I changed mine from 14/48 to 13/49 to lighten the front end wink , just been into Albion and gone for 14/52 - too much chain slap on a 13 tooth front and my RK HD Gold chain is stretching prematurely.

And the rear sprocket is an orange stealth one! Best hide the receipt from the wife now! wink

MATT T · Clubman B

Renthal R3 it is then, I am also going back up to a 14 t ooth front and up a couple of teeth up on the back. I agree that 13 is just too small and gives the chain a hard time. Forgot to mention my bike is a CCM 404.(DRZ motor).

wackyracer · Powermonger!!

yeah some really good info folks and i will be going back up to 'mans size gearing' on the next change over wink

Thanks again, just helped me confirm a few things smile

laterz wacky smile

Shaggy · Clubman B

Hmm.....Do ya think thats what could've happened to mine??? Its not very old and adjusted regular!! confuse Just as well I checked it over otherwise I would've had a bit of a headache on the next ride!!

-- Edited by Shaggy on Tuesday 29th of March 2011 08:01:42 PM

Bob Adams · Clubman A

I was thinking about changing to a 14-50 or 52 on my 450EXC but I wasn't sure the chain guide would clear the rear sprocket. Can I take it that it does?

KronreifTrunkenpolzMattighofen · Devon's Best

Bob Adams wrote:
I was thinking about changing to a 14-50 or 52 on my 450EXC but I wasn't sure the chain guide would clear the rear sprocket. Can I take it that it does?

Albion seemed confident that I had the right bits - they picked them out for me, I'll let you know on Sunday!

wackyracer · Powermonger!!

Bob Adams wrote:
I was thinking about changing to a 14-50 or 52 on my 450EXC but I wasn't sure the chain guide would clear the rear sprocket. Can I take it that it does?

I'm going 14 - 50 (does that sound like a holiday club thing oh know thats 18-30) biggrin

i've got 48 on at the moment bob but a 50 would fit as it wouldn't add much to the diameter and the lower chain guide has 2 bolt holes to lower it to accommodate a bigger sprocket, check your on it mate wink

Bob Adams · Clubman A

Thanks Wacky, looks like I'm on the way back to Albion. I guess I'll have to add links to the chain unless it's a 1 piece jobby.

Don't suppose there's a 48 60 club is there?

KronreifTrunkenpolzMattighofen · Devon's Best

I have just fitted my new 14t front sprocket and attempted to fit the new rear 52t sprocket.

Unfortunatly the rear sprocket of is too big and causes the chain to foul the lower chain guide to a point that the wheel jams.

Pic 1 shows the adjuster bolts have the chain guide in the lowest position.

Pics 2 & 3 show the fouling ( hopefully)

I am a bit surprised that Albion didn't know that this would happen.

Taking the Stealth sprocket back and Friday and hopefullt they will change for a 50t.

-- Edited by nickpdo on Wednesday 30th of March 2011 08:01:50 PM

hampsterracing · Devon's Best

just drill another set of holes

KronreifTrunkenpolzMattighofen · Devon's Best

hampsterracing wrote:
just drill another set of holes

There's not enough "meat" left above the higher hole.

kevinred · Clubman A

Do you really need to run such big gearing?

I run a 15 / 47 and if its more than adequate for pretty much anything I have found on a on a green lane, fast or slow? Dave's running a 15/44 and doesn't even feel the need to change to 47 on the rear?

You'll just reduce your road speed? And a smaller front sprocket are know to eat chains?

Sorry to ask the question but I'm interested in the reasons for using the ratios and then having to mod the bike to make it fit?

-- Edited by kevinred on Wednesday 30th of March 2011 08:01:49 PM

KronreifTrunkenpolzMattighofen · Devon's Best

Standard gearing is 13/52. There the ratio is 4 (52 / 13 ).

When I ran a 14t on the front before it reduced chain slap, and it make the chain last much longer.

To acheive roughly the same gearing I was going for a 14 /52 (ratio 3.71).

Now I'll have to "up" the gearing with a 14 / 50 giving a 3.57 ratio.

When I had 14/46 before the bike would do over 90mph (in 5th) - no need!

It all come down to personal preference and riding style.

-- Edited by nickpdo on Wednesday 30th of March 2011 08:20:14 PM

hampsterracing · Devon's Best

kevinred wrote:

Sorry to ask the question but I'm interested in the reasons for using the ratios and then having to mod the bike to make it fit?

It all depends what you use the bike for as well.

mine is purely for trail riding the only tarmac i ride is between lanes.and on muddy knobblys i dont need much speed.

i was running 13/50 but changed to 14/54 to keep the same ratio but improve chain/sprocket life.

i like the low first gear as i can ride at slow walking pace with the clutch fully out giving me great slow speed control and a good clutch life (the clutch on my WR has never been touched)

Works for me anyway.

Roger

kevinred · Clubman A

Fair comments biggrin

I can also ride at a very slow walking pace with the clutch fully out on the DRZ with 15/47.

Guss it all depends on the bike and the riders needs.

I'm learning by trial and error and thoroughly enjoying it.

Thanks for the replies to my questions wink

Shaggy · Clubman B

kevinred wrote:
Do you really need to run such big gearing?
I run a 15 / 47 and if its more than adequate for pretty much anything I have found on a on a green lane, fast or slow? Dave's running a 15/44 and doesn't even feel the need to change to 47 on the rear?

Each and every bike is different and so is the ratios IN the gearbox itself!! 15/47 (for example) maybe brilliant on one bike yet not so good on another. At the end of the day, its all about riding preference and what works!! wink

RichT4 · Champion

kevinred wrote:
Fair comments
I can also ride at a very slow walking pace with the clutch fully out on the DRZ with 15/47.
Guss it all depends on the bike and the riders needs.
I'm learning by trial and error and thoroughly enjoying it.
Thanks for the replies to my questions

I don't know how your getting away with your gearing Kev.

The standard DRZ E gearing of 14/47 is better but I still found I was slipping the clutch far too often. After some experimentation I finally settled on 14/49 - this gives the right amount of control for the really tricky lanes but still some decent 5th gear road speed.

KronreifTrunkenpolzMattighofen · Devon's Best

All changed for a 50t now, they are not sure what caused it to jam, it could a mix of a 14t front and the wheel being too far forward.

Clayton · Clubman A

You need to run the stealth sprockets on as long a chain as possible because it's the metal dowels that fowl the chain block, so you need to spin your chain adjuster block round so that the longest lobe is against the chain tension adjuster and run the longest chain you can with minimal adjustment left, or as roger said move your chain block forward, I run 13/52 and on the next chain I will be running a 14 tooth front for definite.

KronreifTrunkenpolzMattighofen · Devon's Best

Clayton wrote:
You need to run the stealth sprockets on as long a chain as possible because it's the metal dowels that fowl the chain block, so you need to spin your chain adjuster block round so that the longest lobe is against the chain tension adjuster and run the longest chain you can with minimal adjustment left, or as roger said move your chain block forward, I run 13/52 and on the next chain I will be running a 14 tooth front for definite.

Cheers Clayton, just one issue - I have my new chain shortened.

May have to keep the stealth sprocket for next time. cry

Fitted the supersrox 50T, just slightly fouling the back of the stud in the chain guide, gently filing by hand is no good as it will still be too close.

If I can get another RK link then all is well, otherwise, back to aluminium until I replace the chain.

-- Edited by nickpdo on Thursday 31st of March 2011 07:25:55 PM

Clayton · Clubman A

I'm sure if you ask nicely some one on here will have a chain link riveting tool, then if you use the one that came with your RK chain, you can safely go back to a full length.

RichT4 · Champion

My RK chain didn't come with with a rivet link - just a split link.

KronreifTrunkenpolzMattighofen · Devon's Best

RichT4 wrote:

My RK chain didn't come with with a rivet link - just a split link.

Ditto

Pete · Devon's Best

Leisure Trail sell a Rear Chain Guide Block Dropper Needed to fit 46T plus sprockets @ £27.26

CRM 250 gearing was good for 95mph but after revving out in 1st it laboured in 2nd

One tooth less front and five more rear sorted it

75mph top speed resulted along with greatly improved acceleration
5 rear teeth more are recommended for racing

Now I use 3rd gear instead of 2nd and always have a lower crawler gear for tricky technical stuff which buys me time to think about where to go next

-- Edited by Pete on Sunday 24th of April 2011 11:50:52 AM