Devon TRF Group Forum

Dogschops · Novice

Triumph front brake wanted

grouty · Expert

I have still got a SLS hub on the shelf somewhere, and also a complete 21" SLS on an original Dunlop chrome rim. I use them for racing and find them fine if you use the right lining and shoes, and make sure you arc them. I used milk float lining material on the old B50 MX and it worked fine. Probably not so good on tarmac though.
It was probably me you spoke to, although I have never had or used the TLS as they are too heavy for me.
For the old SLS 6", the billet shoes are the best. The old cast BSA ones are awful.

Dogschops · Novice

I had my original cast shoes relined by saftec supposedly with a soft material, I have chalked them up & filed them to give a fair contact & have done 1000 or so road miles but the brake is next to useless, tried re profiling the cam to lift the leading shoe at the same time as trailing, new cable, several levers with a closer fulcrum all useless, forks dont even dive at slow speed ! & feels very spongy, have not skimmed drum to true but doesn't seem out.
I agree the TLS would give more unsprung weight as well as look a bit bulky but this bike will mainly run on the road and goes well so needs a safe stopper. Where can you get billet shoes ? I cant find any replacements any where, any tips on improving the brake would be appreciated

grouty · Expert

Billet shoes are made by Performance Engineering Services (also known as CCM-Britain) here ... http://www.ccm-britain.co.uk/?xhtml=xhtml/homepage/default.html&xsl=homepage.xsl

Best to ring mark or Anita as only CCM stuff is on the web site. They are not cheap though ! Mark also makes new cams for the backplate.

If your front wheel has been re-spoked at any time, that can cause the drum/hub to distort very slightly. I don't bother with the chalk method. Just stick some 400 grit paper to the lining surface with double sided tape. Re-fit the wheel to the bike and lap in the shoes. Don't get carried away ! It will remove too much if you keep going. Modern cables are not that good either. They seem too spongy / stretchy. Other than NOS, it's a difficult one.

My CCM will stop very smartish, but there again, it weighs less than a 125cc bike.

John Harvey · Clubman A

Hi Paul

It was me and yes I've still got it.

They're a good brake on the lighter Triumphs & BSA's and should be capable of locking the front wheel on a BSA B25/B50 on tarmac... if you want! You can get extended lever arms to improve them further if you want but that's probably more use on the 650 twins and 750 triples. I've got the brake cable as well but will have to dig it out to see if it's the original extra heavy duty they came with. A friend had one on a BSA A65T and was surprised to find the brake shoes from a Moggy Minor go straight in confuse they are apparently identical although not sure about the shoe material being right!

I'll send you a PM

Dogschops · Novice

That's great John, occasionally this bike goes out 2 up & the TLS will make it more usable and a lot safer. Parts are available for this brake n there's not alot out there for 6" SLS. Once I get the bike on the road again I will sort out the original wheel & brake as it will be nice to have 2 wheels, a green lane one & a touring one. The original 1973 rim was quite buckled when I got the bike, I had it trued as best they could so this could have affected the roundness of the drum. I do like the idea of lapping the shoes as described by Grouty, I had never thought of that & will give it a go, also await CCM to come back to me with price on billet shoes, so thanks for the help

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