Its a heavy bike, 160 kgs, on 110 by 18 on the rear.
I tun about 20 psi, deforms a bit when I sit on it, and have had a second puncture in a matter of weeks.
Its got spooked wheels by the way, so the question is this:
Do I need a wider tyre? Ie, heavy bike needs more volume?
Or how about mousse, does this work with wire wheels? And how do you set the bead, I know it will need a rimlock, but how to set the bead with mousse as you will need to pump air into it.
Tubliss. Used for years now.
Most desirable quality, 360° wheel clamp.
Worst bit, need 180 gm weight opposite valves.
Can be ridden flat to get home in the event of a catastrophic slice.
Tested both tyres flat, a bit sketchy upto 5mph, definitely doable in the event.
Modern mouses much better but they go dead after a few months.
Heavy duty tubes are no better than normal, IMHO.
Just much heavier.
Tubliss. Used for years now. Most desirable quality, 360° wheel clamp. Worst bit, need 180 gm weight opposite valves. Can be ridden flat to get home in the event of a catastrophic slice. Tested both tyres flat, a bit sketchy upto 5mph, definitely doable in the event. Modern mouses much better but they go dead after a few months. Heavy duty tubes are no better than normal, IMHO. Just much heavier.
Cant say I'd agree with your comment about Mousses "going dead" after a couple of months. I've been running the same set of Michelin Mousses in my 450 (front and rear) for years now (like 5!!!) and they're fine, for trail riding (imo). Mousses all the way for me. 100% trouble free riding.
Considering a Tubliss set up costs the same as a Michelin mousse per wheel, my money would be on Tubliss if youre sick of tubes.
Even though - according to Jerry Atterick - you could ride a totally split tyre home as the TubLISS essentally creates a full circumstance rim lock, thats still likely gunna be a rather lengthy and precarious ride home so Id personally much rather have a mousse as it represents 100% trouble free riding (in my experience of many, many years of using mousses) Each to their own though I guess.
I agree, pretty much.
I've been told modern mousses are much better.
In the day when racing all the time, last year's bike on mousses, new bike on standard tubes.
I was gobsmacked at the difference. That was the point I switched.
Mousses are easier to change.
For those that don't know, Hepsleve pipe grease is perfect mousse lube.
Free or very cheap, depends on your source.
Used for years with no issues.
500 quid???? 100-120 each, so 200-240. My best source for tyres and mousses is Diki Quance in North Devon. https://dqtyretech.co.uk/
Also enduro tyres here. https://endurotyres.com/?s=mousse
You need to lube them so 20quid for a massive tub of lube. If you do lots of water/rain then they need re-lubing. You can use a syringe injector thingy to do this. https://www.facebook.com/reel/2430645417073261
I just killed my rear after 2500 miles. Thats 25 days out. 18 months. 110 for new one. That was a mitas, I replaced with a michelin which are supposed to be the longest lasting/best.
The fronts arguably last for bloody ever.. Not a single puncture nor do I need to carry any crap for punctures.
You do need rim lock, especially on rear.
-- Edited by wlm on Tuesday 9th of June 2026 12:06:56 PM
You forgot the tyre changer, bead buddies and Levers.
That's true, but don't you need that for tubes, tubeliss or anything else? Its a one off payment. Otherwise all tyre options are expensive if you are paying kwikfit monkeys..
Plus, if you have decent mates, you can borrow their kit. I am in Exeter if anyone needs to borrow all that. I'll even stand and laugh at you trying to wrestle your mousses in.
Bear in mind both Tubliss and Mousse are officially not road legal. A dummy valve can help. An understanding MOT garage too.
If running mousse take care of sizing, example I found an mt43 hard to seat with a medium mousse. Imperial vs metric sizing ?
Its very much about preference however both are imho better than tubes. This last weekend in Knighton highlighted that.
Dummy valve is great as you can use it to seat the tyre via a compressor. Sometime the mousses doesn't push it out and you have to ride for a bit to get it seated.
Also @jules. Kngihton pics and report??? I have been hitting refresh for a couple of days now.
You forgot the tyre changer, bead buddies and Levers.
That's true, but don't you need that for tubes, tubeliss or anything else? Its a one off payment. Otherwise all tyre options are expensive if you are paying kwikfit monkeys..
Plus, if you have decent mates, you can borrow their kit. I am in Exeter if anyone needs to borrow all that. I'll even stand and laugh at you trying to wrestle your mousses in.
Nope, just a new tube and two small tyre levers and I can change a tube in the field, why would you go to a garage to change a tyre ?
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Took the Queens Shilling and disappeared for 23 Years !!
Plus, if you have decent mates, you can borrow their kit. I am in Exeter if anyone needs to borrow all that. I'll even stand and laugh at you trying to wrestle your mousses in.
Nope, just a new tube and two small tyre levers and I can change a tube in the field, why would you go to a garage to change a tyre ?
TBh I dunno, I was just trying to work out how it was £500..
It is each to their own, I have a bead breaker (49.99) and some bead buddys (£15) and have changed 5 or 6 tyres with meese in the last 2 years since I started laning. And that kit still works so there could be many more changes for a small investment. Seems like good value. I do like not worrying about punctures, or having to carry a tube, levers, etc.. But I am a lazy lump so that contributes.
-- Edited by wlm on Thursday 11th of June 2026 02:56:40 PM